"So you love to surf. And you love taking photographs. Why don't you just take photos of surfing then?"
It's a phrase I've heard quite a lot. But there's more to it than that. Sitting on the beach shooting your mates enjoying the waves is one of the most frustrating things for a surfer, and normally the territory of the injured guy doing his friends a favour. I've sat out a few times with my camera, but normally I leave my camera gear on the beach or the boat and rattle off a few shots when I come in for sunscreen, water or another run up the point. That's probably why you'll see surprisingly few surf action shots here or on the website; more an overview of all the other things that come with drifting around looking for waves to ride. I'll do my best to post a shot of somebody ripping at regular intervals though.
Top: Unknown surfer, red board re-entry at Boomerangs, central NSW Australia.
Bottom: DVD, dropping his wallet at Burliegh Heads, QLD Australia.