Sunday, July 15, 2012

A Splash of Colour

Why don't we paint our houses like we paint beach huts?  Multi-coloured in Muizenberg, South Africa. 


Colour.  Now I love black and white photography; it's tonality, contrast and how the absence of colour draws your eye to different points of focus within an image.  But I'd hate it if I had no colour in my life.
A few years ago I returned to the UK from a few years living and working overseas.  I got back a couple of days before Christmas, pretty much bang on the winter solstice and the shortest day of the year.  By February I was sat in an opticians having somebody explain to me that my perceived deterioration in sight was actually down to the fact that my eyes had just got used to bright light and over-saturated colours in the tropics and were struggling to readjust to the low, flat, grey light of a British winter.  Relieved that my eyes weren't failing me, I made hasty plans to leave the country again and get some colour back on my retinas.


Those hard to miss flags that the lifeguards almost always stick right in front of the best peak. 


Colour is so important in our everyday lives:  Red means stop, green is environmentally friendly, blue for boys etc etc...  Colour can trigger feelings and emotions, sooth or agitate, persuade, attract, repel, suggest warmth or cold, keep us awake or send us to sleep.  Did you know that some police drunk tanks are painted pink to calm down violent prisoners?  Companies spend vast sums of money undertaking research into colour perception and reactivity to make sure that their product or logo is the one selected by consumers, and colours have distinct and important roles in the histories of cultures and religions.


Aladdin's Cave, lanterns hang from a shop roof, Dubai.

The Asian Subcontinent is one colourful place, local women wearing saris to the beach, Sri Lanka.

The way we see it, sunlight is colourless.  But cast your mind back to your science lessons at school, and that lesson about rainbows and the colour spectrum.  White light contains the full spectrum of colours as seen in a rainbow when that white light is refracted through water droplets.  Our eyes and brain see the colour that an object reflects, so a red apple absorbs all of the other colours of the spectrum and reflects the red light rays which our eyes receive and our brain processes.

Take a quick look around you and appreciate all of the colour in your life with fresh eyes.

A double rainbow over Tower 24, just before a massive storm.  Mermaid Beach, Gold Coast, Australia.

My friend Scotty is one colourful character, in his sartorial choices as well as all the others that he makes.

Sunday, July 8, 2012

Much Better Now



Surfing and books.  Two of my favourite things but so much greater than the sum of their parts in this web-short from Portuguese studio Salon Alpin.  


This inspirational five and a half minutes will lift your spirits and remind you of the wonderful world that opens up before you whenever you find something that you love.  Just imagine being this little bookmark; doesn't it remind you of how you felt when you realised that there was a big wide world beyond your local beach and that you could surf ALL OVER it.  Kind of like losing yourself in a good book and, upon finishing, looking up to find yourself in a library full of them.  Deep joy.




Post Script:
Massive props to Joe Leach who beached his kayak yesterday evening on Swanpool Beach in Falmouth, arriving from the North having set out and turned South 67 days ago.  Joe just completed the fastest ever solo unsupported circumnavigation of the British Isles, smashing the world record by 5 days which is huge.  Along the way Joe raised a load of money for Surfers Against Sewage, grew a solid beard and also picked up three pieces of marine litter every day.  Read a blog post that I published about him a few weeks ago, read his blog and donate because it's not too late.  Massive congratulations Joe.


Joe's girlfriend Jess welcoming him home after 67 days at sea. Image by Ben Spicer of Cornish Rock Tors.

Sunday, July 1, 2012

A War Within. Living with PTSD.

This week I'm going a little bit "off message" and shifting the focus away from sunny happy surfy stuff, to a much darker, more serious and important issue; that of Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD).

My friend James Allen has just aced his degree in Press and Editorial Photography at University College Falmouth and his final year project has been picked up and shared by a number of top end photography journals, websites and was exhibited in London last week.    James decided to tackle the difficult subject of Post Traumatic Stress Disorder which required him to build relationships with sufferers over long periods of time before they were comfortable being photographed and interviewed.  His subjects ranged from former soldiers to victims of domestic violence or people involved in tragic and unforgettable accidents.  Before I pass the baton to James's images and captions, I'll finish on one key statistic that struck me from his work:  More British veterans of the Falklands War and First Gulf War committed suicide than were killed in action.  That's not the Second Gulf War.  Just consider that for a moment then click through to James' website to view the full set of images and accompanying text which explains the issue far more succinctly than it's possible for me to here.

"This body of work aims to empower my subjects, giving them a voice and educating the viewer, thereby reducing the stigma associated with this mental health issue. The images are captioned by text extracted from my interviews so as to allow the viewer to hear their voices, to sense their anger and despair, but also feel hope and new life."

James Allen, June 2012



 “The imagery of Iraq that bombarded my mind was so detailed that I could paint scenes from my mind. I knew the colour of cars, the height of buildings. I could smell the dead people we had shot. I could see the bodies and the thick congealed blood on the floor. It was like a fish had been gutted. I could see the dead Iraqi soldiers, their eyes staring at me, and I was powerless in my dreams to fight back any threat. I was in such a helpless state.”

 “I attempted to commit suicide. My wife found me with a 9mm Glock in my mouth. I was paranoid - I kept arms and ammunition at home and built up a big Arsenal. It wasn’t a fun place to be really, but the culmination of it was that I tried to kill me self. My wife walked through the door as I was about to do the honours. Her face basically stopped me.”

 “I can’t begin to tell you how many soldiers I’ve worked with that have lost everything - wives, partners and even the rights to see their children. Without a doubt, the hardest part of my journey was losing my family. It wasn’t until I lost them I realised I had a serious problem and had to ask for help.”

 “It’s PTSD; you live with something that happened twenty years ago - you still cry about it. You can’t stop, because you’re still not over it. You’re not allowed the space to, because you’re not allowed to talk about it. Even with therapists you start talking about the gory details and they cover their mouths with shock. They’re anxious because they don’t want to hear the really horrid bits. I was seventeen when I went to the doctors to tell him that I’d been raped. He just patted me on the head. It’s shocking.”

“ I think there’s a problem with PTSD because its become a word synonymous with soldiers. People don’t understand that it might be in the domestic sphere as well. It’s the day you realise your totally out of control and that’s the case the next day and the day after that. It’s a repeated pattern; you can’t make yourself or your family safe. And you won’t be safe next year, and at some point you acknowledge that you’re going to be killed, and I don’t know where you go from there. Once you believe that your going to die I don’t know how you can ever believe in anything different. As a consequence I can’t change my behaviour, in that respect it’s probably very similar to a soldier in a war zone because you are scared your going to be killed today. Its fear, I’m just fearful, they used to call it battered wife syndrome.”

 “It was when I was fourteen years old - there was an accident in the back garden involving some petrol near a barbeque. It caught fire and because it was next to my little sister I tried to prevent an accident and threw the bottle away from her ... it ended up hitting a little lad who caught fire from the flames of the petrol. So I chased after him to get him on the ground and roll him around to stop the flames spreading any more ... I jumped on top of him and rolled him around to put out the flames.”

“At first I was depressed because people were blaming me, saying it was my fault - that I’d done it on purpose. I started to experience flashbacks about it - I felt like I was reliving the moment over and over again, seeing certain things. Flames can set me off on a flashback. Just being asleep in the middle of the night I feel like I am reliving it; I can smell the flesh burning and I feel like I’m burning up myself. I see pictures in my mind of what happened.”

Sunday, June 24, 2012

My Favourite Stretch



I thought I'd share one of my favourite stretches with you this week.  I think a lot of us take flexibility for granted, and it's only when you've let it slip that you realise how good you had it.  When I spent my days surf coaching I'd always start each session with a thorough warm-up for the group of, more often than not, rather un-flexible clients.  Through the summer season I'd do this roughly three times per day and surf as well, so by the time October rolled around and I ran off to Indonesia I was pretty paddle fit and flexible.  This winter I spent a fair bit of time out of the water for various reasons, and I'm definitely noticing the effects of losing a degree of my flexibility.  Even just doing a few stretches for ten minutes each day can keep your general level of flexibility high, and in the long run do your overall fitness a world of good.  It's particularly important in the middle of winter, pre-surf or climb, to make sure that your cold muscles are warmed up so that you don't damage them, just as Benny is demonstrating above.  It doesn't matter if the waves are going off, take 5 minutes minimum to warm up to make sure that you have a good surf and don't prone your second wave in to the beach with a pulled muscle.


The gluteus maximus is the massive muscle that basically makes up your bum.  It runs from the top of your bum down and around the top of your leg to attach somewhere around the outside of your knee.
That's a lot of muscle to stretch.  To do so, lie on your back with your knees bent and your feet flat on the floor.  Put one foot on the other thigh then reach through and grasp behind that thigh with both hands and pull back so that your remaining foot lifts off the floor.  You can use your elbow to push the knee of the leg being stretched flat and get a bit more out of the stretch.  Hold this position and breath into it; you can kind of move the stretch around and you'll feel different areas of tightness being slowly worked out.  Then swap and do the other leg.

 

Sunday, June 17, 2012

Get 'em Started Young




Just imagine if, from the very moment that you could put one foot in front of the other and call it walking rather than falling over, you had been getting in the sea.  And if your Dad and all of his friends surfed and some of them were pretty well renowned surf coaches?  The odds would be fairly good that you'd grow up feeling comfortable in waves I suppose, to say the least.  


Theo, you'd better let us all get some waves in a few years time...




DISCLAIMER:  If any of you are concerned for young Theo's well being, I'll put your mind at ease.  He was laughing and having the best time when this image was taken, and Mum and Dad were stood just out of shot.  From what I hear, since this occasion he now asks to fly to the sea rather than walk.

Sunday, June 10, 2012

Explore



    ex·plore
    verb /ikˈsplôr/ 
    explored, past participle; explored, past tense; explores, 3rd person singular present; exploring, present participle

    1. Travel in or through (an unfamiliar country or area) in order to learn about or familiarize oneself with it
      • - the best way to explore Iceland's northwest
      • explore the world of science and technology

    2. Search for resources such as mineral deposits
      • - the company explored for oil

    3. Inquire into or discuss (a subject or issue) in detail
      • - he sets out to explore fundamental questions

    4. Examine or evaluate (an option or possibility)
      • - you continue to explore new ways to generate income



We had to rent the car.  There was plenty of swell about but it was at a funny angle and seemed to be marching straight past all of the spots within a walk or hitch-hike of where we were staying.  There were also massive tides to contend with and on our first evening (and best surf of the trip) a giant harvest moon rose above the mountains at sunset, a sure sign that there'd be a lot of water moving around over the next few days.


So we drove.  We drove north up the coast and we drove south down the coast, bearing west off the main road down every lane and goat track that we could find looking for waves.  We had a map and some whispered advice and hunches to go on, and it was a far better bet than sitting around at base camp drinking mint tea, watching and waiting.  We didn't score any epic waves because every spot that we found to the north was suffering from the same unlucky combination of swell and tide that were ruling out our first choices, and further to the south on the northern fringes of the Sahara desert the  land-sea breeze whipped up by the powerful sun on sand was vicious.


It was by no means a fruitless couple of days though because for all of the unread pages left in our books we gained a hoard of priceless information.  Fishermen in little villages told us about the waves that keep their boats on the beach, we confirmed the locations of several hinted at secret spots and we bumped into a photographer who I'd met a year previously in Sri Lanka who drew us a mud-map to a really good and really hard to find right hander.  
Our michelin road map is now covered in scribbles about set-ups, directions and optimum swell direction, winds and tides for a multitude of surf breaks that don't appear in the guide books.  


All the result of a couple of days crammed in a hot hire care and a good old fashioned spirit of exploration, and a very good reason to go back next time a good swell appears on the horizon.


 "STOP", we presumed.

On the right day... 

Donkey in the Spring growth. 

Beached Blue Boats. 

A sure sign that you've driven to the edge of the desert, and probably the limit of your hire car's capabilities.

Desert panorama. 

"Bierut-by-the-sea" which looked like it could get all time, and sometimes does from what the local fishermen told us...

Sunday, June 3, 2012

Nature Tastes Delicious


"I love nature.  It tastes delicious."


This is one of my favourite quotes of the year so far.  It came from my housemate Matt in the middle of a dinner table debate about spurious supermarket meat and vegetarianism, and it sums up our household's eating habits fairly well.



Rabbit is dead cheap if you buy it from your local butcher, but it's even cheaper if you have a friend who has an air rifle (and license) and know a few farmers.  In fact, that way it's free plentiful because, well, they breed like rabbits don't they?  A few friends of mine lived off rabbit for a whole summer, just substituting it in for chicken in everyday recipes.  I found a dead easy recipe by Jamie Oliver where you stick the whole rabbit, a load of un-peeled veg and a bottle of beer into a casserole and slow cook it for 12 hours.  Then you put on a pair of rubber gloves and mush what comes out into a new pan, picking out the vegetable skin and rabbit bones.  It's called 12-hour rabbit bolognese, it doesn't even taste like rabbit and you ought to try it.


The same friend also stalks deer in season and so every now and then we get a supermarket carrier bag full of venison sausages and a roast dropped round.  Venison has been getting a lot of good press recently for having the highest protein and lowest cholesterol content of any major meat, as well as being completely free range and sustainable.  If you get a chance to get your hands on some venison then I'd thoroughly recommend it, and if you happen to be in West Australia be sure to check out the Margaret River Venison Farm.



A few years ago I made a lobster snare to take spear fishing with me, in the hope of wrestling a few big crustaceans out of the cracks in the rock.  No such luck just yet, but we have thrown a lobster pot over the side of the boat a few times so far this year, left it a few days and then hauled it in.  Pulling the pot up from the depths is like waiting to get a roll of film developed, waiting to see what comes out.  We've had a few edible crab, some spider crab, juvenile dogfish (a small shark that we threw back) and, deep joy, a few lobster.


But this is what we tend to pull in loads of around the Cornish coast this time of year.  Mackerel.  Loads of them, unless there're a lot of dolphins about in which case they eat them all first.  Fishing for sea bass and bream is a lot more rewarding...when you actually get a fish.  Drop a line with some mackerel feathers into the sea however, either off the rocks at mid tide or over the side of a boat and you'll struggle to reel your line in fast enough.  Gut, slash three or four times on either side, oil, salt, pepper and onto a hot bbq grill later that day or evening.  Fresh, filling and free.






What's the point of all of this?  Well wherever you live, be it in the middle of a city, amidst the fields and woods of the countryside or next to the sea, you can eat pretty well.  Vegetable patches, pots and planters, window boxes, organic vegetable box delivery services, a good local butcher, a decent fishmonger, a fishing rod...the list goes on.  You can eat really, really, well if you grow, catch, kill or buy what's in season (asparagus, radishes, broad beans, crab, mackerel and seabass right now in the uk), it might just take a bit of forethought, some planning, and in the case of skinning and gutting rabbits a poor sense of smell or a strong stomach.




Images from top to bottom:
  • Herbs and my annual "tallest sunflower" entries on the kitchen windowsill, a.k.a. "The garden of death".
  • One for the pot, Cornwall, Spring evening 2012.
  • The Polbilly lobster pot delivers dinner and a marine biology lesson.
  • Catch of the day on a Padstow fishing boat.
  • Dinner.
  • The simplest Summer dinner?