Sunday, May 22, 2011

Lucky Grommets

Just look at this. It really is no wonder that Western Australia churns out so many sickeningly talented surfers is it?

Check the kids walking back up the track here with their sponges tucked under their arms and put yourself in their shoes (hypothetically though - they're barefoot): A Sunday afternoon at a world class wave with just some mates from school and a few other local surfers who probably know their Dads and will call them into waves. And that's not unusual. When I lived around here it wasn't uncommon to get up for the dawny and the only other people in the sea would be the town doctor, the pharmacist, the local elementary school teacher and the wildlife warden.
It's probably not bad odds to bet that at least one of these kids or their class-mates will end up making a career out of going surfing, and a couple more will get some sort of coverage in the surf media at some point as an "underground" charger. It's just the way it works around here where the ratio of great waves to surfers is so stacked in the surfer's favour; you could pick the most distinctly average grommet in the class and yet if you transplanted them to any other spot on the planet they'd be a standout.

Lucky grommets.

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