Sunday, January 25, 2015
The depths of winter, for a surfer in high latitudes, can be like an enormous game of meteorological hide and seek. Rainbows abound, but the proverbial pot of gold is always retreating over the brow of the next hill. Swells are often raw and powerful, generated by storm systems that follow closely behind and move over the coast bringing strong winds that swing on a dime. The clock is there to race as daylight hours are limited and large tides can cause good sand banks and reefs to turn on and off within an hour. It's all too easy to spend hours on end driving country lanes and slip-sliding down muddy tracks to check obscure little coves only to find out that you've missed the best of it someplace else. It can feel like you're spending all of your precious free time chasing unicorns - you know that you'll never get one, but it's worth it just to catch a glimpse every now and then.