Brad's backhand foam climb, somewhere north of Hossegor.
"We've got plenty of time, I'll definitely make my train." were the famous last words that I uttered as I walked backwards up the beach with Harry, still firing off shots of the rest of our friends surfing an empty, head-high peak on the beaches somewhere north of Hossegor. We ran up the sand dune, got back to the car and set off along the track through the forest to rejoin the main road, both pretty confident that we would get there on time and that I'd catch my train. Well, get me there on time we did, but I hadn't accounted for the queue that I would face at the ticket office which was clearly running on a skeleton staff. I watched the clock tick down from quarter to twelve towards the departure time of midday; I was fidgeting, huffing and starting to get anxious. With three minutes to go I left the queue and tackled the automatic machine which spat my ticket out at 11:59. I ran under the underpass and up onto the platform where my train to Bordeaux was waiting and, just as I reached out to press the button to open the door, I heard the ominous clunk of the doors locking. "Non, c'est parti monsieur. Le prochain train est à quinze heures" the conductor shouted down to me, as I watched my train leave without me and taking with it any hopes of me making my flight home and getting back to work the next day. Harry doubled back to pick me up, and on the drive back to Hossegor the exhaust fell off his car on the péage. Clearly it wasn't our morning. We limped back with the car sounding like a motorbike and rejoined the rest of our friends who were spending the afternoon watching the WCT surf contest, and I fired off a few frames of the world's best surfers in action.
Sometimes a morning really doesn't go your way and there's nothing at all that you can do about it apart from try your best to make the most of the afternoon. It's just the way that the cookie crumbles, but at the end of the day cookies still taste good.
Julian Wilson, teasing me for missing my train
by pointing straight at 12 o-clock.
Ol' green eyes on a nicely backlit green wave.
Contest winner John John Florence entertaining the crowd
way down at the southern end of the contest zone.
The beach was absolutely packed in front
of the peak and the grandstand.
Miguel Pupo casting a shadow in round 3.
Taj Burrow and a rooster's tail.