All set and ready to shove off.
The old canoe had almost as many cracks and patches on its inside
as it had on its outside. Luckily none
of them matched up so we took a punt on it, packed our bags into the space
between the seats, and pushed off. No water came in. Phew.
Green through the green, shot from the shore by Kate.
We set off from Durgan, a tiny hamlet with a pebble beach just
inside the mouth of the Helford River on the south coast of Cornwall. An hour’s paddle up the river sits Tremayne
Quay and that was where we were aiming for.
Tremayne Quay was built in 1847 by local landowner Sir Richard Vyvyan in
anticipation of a visit from Queen Victoria however in the end she never came
and the quay has remained a quiet, hidden away, little secret. It's quite difficult to get to by road, but comparatively easy by water. The quay and the woodlands surrounding it
were bequeathed to the National Trust in 1978 and these days it is one of the
few public moorings on the upper reaches of the Helford River.
We paddled the open Canadian canoe in between the yachts moored on
the river at Helford Passage and were soon on an open stretch of the
river. The unspoilt woodlands on either
side overhang the water making the riverbanks look like giant clumps of
moss. Away in the distance up stream the
quay is just about visible but we’re paddling with the pushing tide so it
doesn’t take us long to get there. As we
near the old grass topped stone structure a small flash of iridescent blue
streaks away into the creek to our left…a kingfisher?
Straight out of the seventies.
Once the canoe has been beached on the gravel at the far end of
the quay, Kate and I climb out and unpack our camping duffel bag. We pitch my tiny two-man a-frame tent (which
alongside the 1970’s style canoe makes our set-up look like a step back in
time) and sit down to absorb the calm surroundings. It is so, so, quiet.
As the evening draws in I wave my fly fishing rod around a bit and
remember why this whole business is called fishing and not catching before
going to look for the bag of groceries that we bought with us.
Dinner was cooked in the glow of a paraffin lantern and eaten with
our wellingtoned feet hanging over the edge of the stone dock, before Kate beat
me at backgammon and we turned in for the night.
Fishing not catching, shot by Kate.
Being beaten at backgammon.
In the morning we woke up with mist pushing up the river from the
sea, making it seem like we were sitting inside what felt like a giant
Tupperware box. Every so often the long,
low, blast of a fog-horn from one of the big ships floating out in the bay was
audible from way off in the distance.
After breakfast and a walk along the riverbank to the old
boathouse Kate and I pushed off and floated back down river with the dropping
tide. We heard the Helford gig before we
saw it, emerging out of the mist in front of the shadow of a ship like some sort
of pirate movie. It just added to the
feeling of having gone back in time, if only for one night.
A "spit stop" to brew tea on the return journey.
G'Arghh!