Sunday, January 13, 2013
Walking back up the beach - all limp, lifeless arms and tight shoulders hunched up around your ears from paddling for so many waves; Salt-crusted eyelashes and eyebrows, and a slight sting when you blink; Wide awake and yet exhausted at the same time; Knowing that you've just had a whole day's worth of fun before everyone else's has even begun.
Roll on lighter mornings and being able to sneak out for a meaningful surf before sinking a coffee and getting on with some work for the day.
The sun's now starting to sneak a little bit further north each day in the Northern Hemisphere. It won't be long now before dawn surfs are actually dawn surfs, and not just plain old surfing in the morning. I for one can't wait.